How to grow Raspberries
Rubus idaeus
Fast, forgiving, and very cold-hardy.
Red raspberries are the hardiest, most forgiving berry in most climates. Everbearing (fall-bearing) types are the most beginner-proof: just mow all the canes to the ground each winter and they fruit on fresh growth.
Grow Raspberries with step-by-step help for your exact yard.
Start free in Seededly →Raspberries at a glance
| Sun | Full sun |
|---|---|
| Soil pH | 5.5–6.5 |
| Spacing | 2–3 ft; rows 6–8 ft |
| Harvest | July, or Aug→frost |
| Plant | Early spring |
| Support | Simple trellis |
How to grow Raspberries, step by step
Choose a type
- Red raspberries are the hardiest — best bet in cold regions.
- Everbearing (fall-bearing) is easiest: one winter chore — mow all canes down — and they fruit on new growth.
- Summer-bearing types give one big July crop but need their old canes removed each year.
Prep the soil
- Pick a full-sun, well-drained spot — raspberries hate wet feet.
- Avoid beds where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant grew (shared root disease).
- Work in compost; aim for pH 5.5–6.5.
Plant in early spring
- Plant dormant canes as soon as the soil is workable.
- Space plants 2–3 ft apart in rows; set them at the depth they grew before.
- Put up a simple two-wire trellis to keep canes upright and airy.
First weeks of care
- Water in well and keep the soil evenly moist while roots establish.
- Mulch to hold moisture and smother weeds.
- New canes will shoot up from the base — that’s exactly what you want.
Keep it going
- Everbearing: cut ALL canes to the ground in late winter for one easy fall crop.
- Summer-bearing: after fruiting, remove only the canes that fruited (the brown, woody ones).
- Thin to the strongest 4–5 canes per foot of row for airflow.
- Net against birds and watch for spotted-wing fruit flies as berries ripen.
Raspberries problems & fixes
Raspberries — Canes wilt and die back: what's wrong and how do I fix it?
Usually root disease from wet ground or an old tomato/potato bed. Improve drainage and move the patch.
Raspberries — Tiny worms in ripe berries: what's wrong and how do I fix it?
Spotted-wing fruit fly. Pick often, chill berries right away, and clear fallen fruit.
Raspberries — Lots of leaves, few berries: what's wrong and how do I fix it?
Canes are crowded. Thin to the strongest 4–5 canes per foot of row.
Raspberries — Berries crumble apart: what's wrong and how do I fix it?
Heat or virus stress. Keep them watered and replace very old plantings.
Recommended raspberries varieties
- Heritage — Everbearing. Fall crop on new canes — just cut everything down each winter. Nearly foolproof.
- Killarney — Summer red. Extremely winter-hardy summer berry, perfect for cold climates.
- Caroline — Everbearing. Big, flavorful fall berries; vigorous and productive.
Raspberries month-by-month
| January | Dormant — order canes. |
|---|---|
| February | Late-winter prune: mow everbearing types to the ground. |
| March | Set up a trellis; plant dormant canes. |
| April | Plant, mulch, and give a first feeding. |
| May | New canes shoot up from the base — let them grow. |
| June | Summer types flower. Keep the soil moist. |
| July | Summer harvest — pick every 2–3 days. |
| August | After summer types fruit, cut out the old canes. |
| September | Fall (everbearing) harvest begins. |
| October | Finish the fall crop; clear fallen fruit and debris. |
| November | Mulch the roots for winter. |
| December | Dormant — sharpen your pruners. |